Yep, I’m on holiday. Actually, I’m visiting family who moved up here some years ago.
It’s an odd town, Blackpool. The housing round here is beautiful; heavy red bricks (so heavy they can only be laid three courses at a time - the cement squeezes out otherwise), large, solid structures, big front gardens and some unique features. I particularly love the turrets at the corners of some of the houses that allow the occupants to see down two different streets from one vantage point. There are some very nice open spaces too, not enormous but well tended. The place has an air of class about it.
Now take a trip to the Promenade, the sea-front area that constitutes the tourist area and witness the opposite end of the scale, epitomised both by the people there and the facilities serving them. I am hardly exaggerating when I say the primary features of the majority of the people here are: tattoos, foul language, scruffy, ill-fitting clothes, football shirts or FCUK t-shirts (is this still regarded as funny by these people?), cigarettes drooping from semi-permanent scowls and the occasional loud,vulgar behaviour.
Other notable features are the increased numbers of non-white visitors, particularly Asians - from which I am not sure which conclusion to draw - and the overwhelming uniformity of the ‘food’ on offer in the ‘restaurants’ and cafes. With just a few exceptions, chicken or burger with chips is the staple diet in tourist Blackpool. There are few foreign food restaurants. In a place we stopped for a lack-lustre coffee there were nine main course items on offer. Six of them came with chips and peas (sausage chips and peas, chicken chips and peas, fish chips and peas - you get the idea). The other three offered the chips but, for reasons I can only imagine to be completely arbitrary, no peas.
As with the previous restaurant we’d eaten in we were bounded both sides by families who sat, vacant, unsmiling, their faces taut, their children actually well-behaved - if sullen silence can be regarded as good behaviour.
Perhaps most notable of all was how relatively uncrowded the sea-front area is. When taking into account that this is the middle of the school summer holidays and it is also a Saturday I would expect the place to be bustling. It’s not. It’s busy but there’s room for many more. My sister says the town’s dying on its feet. I am not going to research if this is truly so and, if so, why it’s so, but looking at the sullen faces, the bored kids and experiencing the general lack of anything truly exciting or dynamic (excluding a few half-decent fair-ground rides) I can’t help but feel that, the unemployment problems it will cause notwithstanding, its demise isn’t such a bad thing.
But what strikes me is that the decline - if there is one - is due simply to absolutely nobody in the area I visited actually making the effort to offer something different, something a little better than what is currently the norm. It’s almost as if they cannot conceive of the clientel wanting something different to what’s on offer - and have now found themselves bereft of ideas as the visitor figures slowly slip away. My primary feeling about Blackpool is one of sadness. It resembles a person, well-meaning, inoffensive but stuck in a rut, and, being not particularly bright, unable to get out of it despite a quiet desperation to do so.
Blackpool’s survival may depend on the government’s promotion and legalising of widespread and easily accessible gambling in the UK. Along with the equally socially destructive (but equally lucrative - especially for the government) promotion of 24 hour alcohol consumption it might be that its reincarnation as England’s very own Sin City could be its saving. As a copy of Las Vegas it might even become a classier place . But such a basis for a revival is a fragile one. A socially conservative government ought to cancel this government’s plans to fill its tax short-comings with the tax proceeds from alcohol and gambling. Doing so could ruin the town. It’s a lousy choice to have to make. I hope it can be avoided.